Wonderland Tea Cosy CAL Part 3

Designed by Lyndsay McFarlane of Wooly like to Hook. Please share your progress using the tag #wonderlandteacosyCAL so we can all see who's joining in!

See more pics on our introduction post!

Wonderland tea cosy

Yarn

Hayfield Bonus DK

1 ball each in

888 Peaches

992 Pink

886 Bright Green

819 Bright Lemon

701 Juniper

981 Bright Orange

730 Ice Blue

960 Powder Blue

965 Black

766 Pumpkin

961 White

927 Walnut

814 Light Grey Mix

958 Iced Pink

964 Oatmeal

812 Cream

824 Azure

977 Signal Red

978 Sunflower

Find your local stockist at www.sirdar.co.uk

Materials required

Small teapot (tea for one!)

Plastic canvas

Wire (such as garden wire)

Hooks, 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm

Scissors

Darning needles

Toy stuffing

Small safety eyes

Small beads for the doughnut

Stitches and abbreviations

Ch- Chain

Dc- double crochet

Htr- half treble

Tr- treble

Dc2tog- double crochet 2 together (decrease)

Dtr- double treble

Sl st- slip stitch

St- Stitch

Yrh- yarn round hook

Standing stitches- a standing stitch can only be used when beginning with a new yarn, for example if your next row will begin with a htr, instead of sl st to the first st and working 2 ch you can begin directly with a htr as follows: place a slip knot on your hook, yrh, then insert the hook into the first st, yrh, bring the working yarn through, yrh, draw through all 3 loops, you have now started your row with a htr stitch rather than chains, this can be applied to all stitches, but remember you can only use it when attaching a new yarn to your work.

Wonderland Tea Cosy Part 2 - The Hat!

Part one can be found here - Wonderland Tea Cosy Part 1

Part two can be found here - Wonderland Tea cosy Part 2

In this part we are going to tackle the hat! This will involve working with the plastic canvas, which can be a bit fiddley so patience is required!

I have used a 3.5mm hook as the tension has to be quite tight, ideally you don't want to see through the hat.

Join each rnd with a sl st in the first st when indicated.

With Green (886), chain 2.

Rnd 1: Working in the 2^nd ch from hook, 6 dc same ch, join. 6 dc

Continue each rnd in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chs. Keep track of the first st of each rnd with a st marker or a long piece of waste yarn.

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st. 12dc

Rnd 3: *2 dc in next st, 1 dc; rep from * around. 18 dc

Rnd 4: *2 dc in next st, 2 dc; rep from * around. 24 dc

Rnd 5: *2 dc in next st, 3 dc; rep from * around. 30 dc

Rnd 6: *2 dc in next st, 4 dc; rep from * around. 36 dc

Rnd 7: *2 dc in next st, 5 dc; rep from * around. 42 dc

Rnd 8: *2 dc in next st, 6 dc; rep from * around. 48 dc

Rnd 9: *2 dc in next st, 7 dc; rep from * around. 54 dc

Rnd 10: *2 dc in next st, 8 dc; rep from * around. 60 dc

Rnd 11: *2 dc in next st, 9 dc; rep from * around. 66 dc

Rnd 12: *2 dc in next st, 10 dc; rep from * around. 72 dc

Rnd 13: *2 dc in next st, 11 dc; rep from * around. 78 dc

Rnd 14: Dc in BLO around, (that?s the loops furthest away). 78 dc

Rnd 15: Dc around. 78 dc

Rnd 16: As Rnd 15. 78 dc You are now going to decrease each rnd by 2 sts, work the decreases in different parts of the rnd each time and not next to each other in any one rnd, it makes it less obvious.

Rnd 17: Dc around [replacing 2 of these sts with 1 dc2tog] twice. 76 dc

Rnd 18: Dc around [replacing 2 of these sts with 1 dc2tog] twice. 74 dc

Rnd 19: Dc around [replacing 2 of these sts with 1 dc2tog] twice. 72 dc

Continue decreasing each rnd until you have 42 dc, this will take you to the end of Rnd 34.

You are now going to do the top of the brim

Rnd 35: *[2 dc in BLO] in next st, 6 dc in BLO; rep from * around 48 dc

Rnd 36: *2 dc in next st, 7 dc; rep from * around 54 dc

Rnd 37: *2 dc in next st, 8 dc; rep from * around 60 dc

Rnd 38: *2 dc in next st, 9 dc; rep from * around. 66 dc

Rnd 39: *2 dc in next st, 10 dc; rep from * around. 72 dc

Rnd 40: *2 dc in next st, 11 dc; rep from * around. 78 dc

Rnd 41: *2 dc in next st, 12 dc; rep from * around, join, sl st to next st. 84 dc

Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

You are now going to make the bottom of the brim, this part is crocheted separate from the main hat.

Chain 36.

Rnd 1: Starting in the first ch made (to work in the round), 2 dc in first ch, 5 dc, *2 dc in next st, 5 dc; rep from * around. 42 dc

Rnd 2: *2 dc in next st, 6 dc; rep from * around. 48 dc

Rnd 3: *2 dc in next st, 7 dc; rep from * around. 54 dc

Rnd 4: *2 dc in next st, 8 dc; rep from * around. 60 dc

Rnd 5: *2 dc in next st, 9 dc; rep from * around. 66 dc

Rnd 6: *2 dc in next st, 10 dc; rep from * around. 72 dc

Rnd 7: *2 dc in next st, 11 dc; rep from * around. 78 dc

Rnd 8: *2 dc in next st, 12 dc; rep from * around, join, sl st to next st. 84 dc.

Fasten off.

Now it's the fun part! Shaping the hat using plastic canvas!

Cut the canvas the same shape as the top of the hat then place the canvas inside the hat (it doesn't have to be a perfect circle as it is quite hard to cut the canvas).

Measure the length of the hat, mine was 9.5cm, I ended up cutting a rectangle measuring 9.5cm x 29cm, then popped it into the hat, don't worry if it's a bit lumpy where the ends meet as you sew these bits in, it might need a bit of wiggling and a bit more trimming. Once you are happy with the shape, stitch around the hat securing the canvas, don't worry if your stitching is a bit messy on the inside as you are not going to be able to see it.

Now for the brim! Cut a circle the same size as the brim and cut the middle out like so, sew the canvas to the brim (inside circle only). Place the bottom of the brim to the top of the brim like so and sew the 2 brims together.